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Pre-SIHH 2018: A Taste Of What’s To Come For The Geneva Watch Fair


PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

The Kalpa watch has been a symbol of Parmigiani Fleurier since its creation in 2001. The latest version is now fitted exclusively with shaped movements, developed in-house. Its hallmark features – the tonneau case, the teardrop lugs and the understated dial with Delta-shaped hands – are the result of careful consideration of ergonomics, proportions and optimal readability. It’s a return to the company’s early days and the first tonneau movement created by founder Michel Parmigiani 20 years ago, who said that he was inspired by nature. “The inspiration comes from nature, from its proportions and from the natural curves that provide the ingredients for creativity.” Ahead of the upcoming SIHH event, the brand has unveiled three initial interpretations of the historic timepiece – two have automatic movements with an integrated chronograph, and the third is a hand-wound calibre with an eight-day power reserve, modelled on its 1998 predecessor; all three are COSC-certified.

The first tonneau movement created by founder Michel Parmigiani 20 years ago.

Kalpa Chronor

The Kalpa Chronor features the world’s first solid-gold, self-winding, integrated chronograph movement. This tonneau watch is water-resistant to 30m and made of hand-polished 18ct rose gold. It measures 48.2 x 40.4mm and houses an exceptional in-house mechanism developed over a course of six years, the PF365, with a reading accuracy of one tenth of a second. With a power reserve of around 65 hours, this Haute Horlogerie movement is set apart by its luxury composition using 18ct gold. The malleable material is particularly complex to work with, which further reinforces the rare quality and expertise that have gone into its design, the skeleton work on its bridges, and its decoration. It also features a variable-inertia balance, held in place by a cross-through bridge, for improved stability and shock resistance. The movement is wound by an oscillating weight in 22ct gold that features a barley grain guilloché motif, and provides hour, minute, small second and chronograph functions with a tachymeter and date window.

The 18 ct gold bipartite dial in black is elegantly finished with an opaline centre, hand-worked braid-effect guilloché detail on the flange, and snailed counters. The counters have been enlarged and positioned slightly above the centre point, offering easier readability, while the rounded date window with its gold outline at 12 o’clock reveals below it a disc with white numerals and a gold powder finish for the ‘1’. An exceptional timepiece fitted with an Hermès black alligator strap, it is produced as a series of 50 numbered pieces.

Kalpagraphe Chronometre

The new Kalpagraphe Chronomètre invites those who look upon it to dive into its deep Abyss blue waves, illuminated in 18ct rose gold. The stylish masculinity of this novelty lies in the form of one of the most popular horological complications: the chronograph. It is powered by a new shaped movement bearing the hallmarks of Parmigiani Fleurier – the calibre PF362, a COSC-certified chronograph with a 65-hour power reserve. Entirely developed and manufactured in-house over a period of six years, this calibre demonstrates an accuracy of one tenth of a second; its variable-inertia balance is secured by a bridge which provides strength and stability against shocks. Seamlessly integrated with the hand-polished 48.2 x 40.4mm tonneau case, it is wound automatically by the 22ct gold oscillating weight with its barley grain guilloché motif.

As for the display, the dial is divided into different levels and features an Abyss blue centre treated with PVD with an opaline finish, a radial guilloché-worked flange punctuated with hand-applied faceted indices; two snailed counters enclosed within a fine gold edging; an angled tachymeter scale; a semi-instantaneous date window and a small-seconds sector with its own hand. The luminescent Delta-shaped hands, the counters placed slightly off-centre, and the rounded date indicator containing three numerals come together to form this balanced display. An Hermès alligator strap in Abyss blue rounds out the sporty yet elegant design.

Kalpa Hebdomadaire

The third men’s model unveiled ahead of SIHH 2018 is one that pays tribute to the history of the Kalpa. Developed by Michel Parmigiani in 1998 and honoured with an innovation award the following year, the hand-wound calibre PF110 is characterised by its impressive eight-day power reserve, made possible by the two series-mounted barrels. This is one Haute Horlogerie calibre that is particularly iconic for the brand, and offers hour and minute functions, small seconds at 6 o’clock, a date display and a weekly power reserve indicator. In keeping with the other new-generation Kalpa watches, the refined design features of its mechanism – ‘Côtes de Genève’ pattern, bevelled bridges and circular-graining – are exposed through a sapphire case-back. As the face of the collection, the watch is crafted in 18ct rose gold and entirely hand-polished.

The rich black dial is hinged on different levels and has an opaline finish in the centre, on the small-seconds counter and on the power reserve scale, as well as a hand-worked braid-effect guilloché detail on the flange. Equally distinctive is the instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock that houses the famous bright red ‘1’ numeral. The new Kalpa Hebdomadaire is attractively proportioned (42.3 x 32.1mm), fastening neatly on the wrist with an Hermès black alligator strap for unparalleled comfort and style.

HERMÈS

Arceau Chrono Titane

It was in 1978 that the maison’s esteemed artistic director Henri d’Origny created the Arceau model: a round watch that he decided to associate with asymmetrical lugs, featuring a shape inspired by stirrups along with a distinctive and singular font. Since then, interpreted through countless evolutions and variations, the line has been continuously renewed while remaining true to its original spirit.

Equipped with a chronograph function and a 41mm bead-blasted titanium case, this sportier version radiates an appealingly light air. Its characteristic sloping numerals give the impression of being in motion, carried by the wind. The three counters and the date are harmoniously arranged. Upholding the saddle-making heritage of the brand, both models are fitted with a natural Barenia calfskin strap, or with a black embossed Barenia calfskin strap, on which the saddle stitching and inimitable feel testify to the tradition of leather-making excellence cultivated by Hermès. Above and beyond purely equestrian design codes, the Arceau Chrono Titane asserts a fine balance between sturdiness and airy lightness.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Reverso Tribute Duoface Limited Edition

In the coming year, Jaeger-LeCoultre will be continuing its partnership with Casa Fagliano, one of the world’s foremost bootmakers hailing from Argentina, whose leather is known for its great strength and suppleness. Underlining the exclusive nature of this collaboration, a Reverso Tribute Duoface is being issued in a limited edition of 100 pieces on a two-tone cordovan leather strap demonstrating an outstanding leathercraft tradition.

 

All the skills and expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre are discernible in the watch’s timeless and understated design in pink gold. Driven by the Duoface concept, the watch offers two contrasting dials – both equally refined and each displaying a different time zone. The slate grey sunray dial on the front features hand-applied hour markers that echo its Dauphine hands. A small seconds in a round minute track brings a softening note to the pure geometrical linearity of this watch, whose Art Deco design reflects its 1931 inspiration. On the other side of the watch, the local time is displayed on a silvered dial that creates an elegant play of light through the juxtaposition of two finishes – a Clous de Paris guilloché on the background, and an opaline finish in the centre. The day/night indicator brings out the rounded curves and gives added character to this fascinating watch. Fagliano’s two-tone strap allies a light brown with a darker brown shade on the turned-over flap, and features a tone-on-tone overstitching on both sides of the dial’s gadroons. Each strap is hand-crafted, with its own unique patina and finishes, making it a one-off. The words “Limited Edition – One of 100” engraved on its back emphasise the exclusive nature of this watch.

CARTIER

Rotonde De Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon

The Mysterious Double Tourbillon movement created at the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture in 2013 represents a milestone in Cartier watchmaking history: the tourbillon appears to be suspended in mid-air with no connection to the rest of the movement. As a double flying tourbillon, it effects a complete rotation in 60 seconds, while the tourbillon cage performs a second rotation in which each round takes five minutes. This balancing act is all the more formidable in view of the finely constructed case and painstaking craftsmanship.

All of the components are hand-finished: the bridges chamfered, flanks drawn and screw heads polished. This year’s addition of skeletonised bridges in the shape of Roman numerals enhances the lightness and power of the watch. The magic of the mysterious is encased in the transparency of the skeleton. The curves of the watch and mysterious movement are complemented by the stark geometric openwork architecture of the skeletonised bridges.

Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious Day & Night

The Rotonde de Cartier watch lends its generous dial to two historic Cartier complications: the mysterious movement and the day/night indicator, both of which are part of Cartier’s watchmaking heritage. Both dating from 1912, the mysterious movement was created for the “Model A” mystery clock, while the day/night movement was part of the Comet clock (also known as the Planet clock).

Cartier now brings these two complications together for the first time in fine watchmaking: the sun, driven from left to right by the mysterious movement, appears to levitate in the top half of the dial, before handing over to the moon. The sun and moon, two stylised heavenly bodies, in turn indicate the hours of the day and night when the retrograde minutes are displayed in the bottom half of the dial. This airborne reading of the time is magnified by the juxtaposition of the radiating guilloché and satin-brushed sunray finish on the dial.

A.LANGE & SOHNE

1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”

In honour of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great grandson, Walter Lange, who revived the brand upon the German reunification in 1990 and, following a full life, passed away at the age of 92 in January 2017, A. Lange & Sohne is enriching its 1815 collection with a deeply commemorative timepiece, the 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”, featuring a stoppable jumping seconds hand that dates back to a 150-year-old invention conceived by Ferdinand.

Walter Lange

In general, mechanical watches can be recognised by their creeping seconds hand, but this constant progression, however, sometimes makes it difficult to pinpoint the beginning and the event of an event. With the 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”, the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock performs six small steps as it advances from marker to marker, while the blued sweep seconds hand skips precisely from second to second. It can run continuously, or be immobilised, if needed, using the pusher at 2 o’clock – useful for measuring heart rates.

An 1815 with jumping seconds likely corresponds to what Walter would have imagined to be an ideal watch – classic elegance with a technical twist. The blued steel hands contrast well against the argente-coloured dial with the classic railway-track minute scale. The movement has a special calibre designation, L1924, referring to Walter’s birth year. Additionally, the first three digits of the reference number, 297, recall his date of birth, 29 July. With a case diameter of 40.5 millimetres, the timepiece comes in three editions: 145 pieces in white gold, 90 in pink and 27 in yellow. These uncommon numbers are derived from important milestones: the 145 years between the company’s founding and its revival; 1990, the year Walter registered Lange Uhren GmbH; and the subsequent 27 years that have eventually led us to the conception of this tribute watch. A one-off version in steel with black enamelled dial will be auctioned off in 2018 for a charitable cause.

MONTBLANC

In addition to arriving at its Minerva manufacture’s 160th year, Montblanc will be celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Star Legacy collection come 2018 by drawing inspiration from the pocket watches produced by Minerva at the turn of the 20th century, featuring curved, round cases, stepped horns, a pronounced onion-shaped crown and prominent Arabic numerals. Here’s a taste of the upcoming collection.

Star Legacy Automatic Chronograph

With aesthetic codes directly rooted in classical fine watchmaking and the Minerva history, the watch remains elegant upon the incorporation of a practical chronograph. The pure silvery-white dial contains balanced proportions between the design elements and the timekeeping functions. It features redesigned black Arabic numerals, classic blued leaf-shaped hands, a refined filet sauté guilloché and a unique railway minute track that encircles the dial and counters, paying tribute to the classy style of historical Minerva timepieces.

The timepiece comes in a rounded 42mm steel case with curved horns and steps on the side, an onion-shaped crown decorated with the Montblanc emblem, and a curved finish on the side of the case itself, giving a refined pebble effect. It comes fitted with a new blue Sfumato alligator leather strap by the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, Italy, realised from an additional operation that gives it a compelling finish.

Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Montblanc reinterprets its Nicolas Rieussec monopusher chronograph that was launched in 2008 and has since become a true Montblanc icon, a tribute to the French watchmaker the collection is named after and the inventor of the world’s first patented chronograph. In this new version, the silvery-white dial has been entirely reworked, with particular attention paid to the proportions of the design and horological details, allowing better visibility and fine watchmaking aesthetics.

The off-centred hour-circle and the chronograph’s titanium turning discs have been domed, giving a three-dimensional effect. Inspired by the codes of the collection, the black Arabic numerals have been slimmed down and surrounded by a precise railway minute track, with classic blued leaf-shaped hands complete the overall design. The date has been placed at 6 o’clock and enhanced with a sophisticated display applied on the dial with blued screws. Providing a fine watchmaking appearance, the dial is highlighted with an elegant guilloché pattern, azuré finishing in the centre of the hour-circle, and a filet sauté guilloché decoration that runs around the dial.

Reminiscent of Minerva pocket watches, the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph features a newly-designed, round case of 44.8 mm, curved finishing on the sides, and horns that have steps on the sides. Powered by the iconic Manufacture monopusher chronograph movement with automatic winding, the Calibre MBR200, the watch has two barrels that store enough energy for 72 hours of power reserve, and two rotating vertically-aligned discs for the monopusher chronograph’s 60-second and 30-minute counters that turn below a blued fixed double index like on the original device. Additionally, a second time zone is indicated by a skeletonized hand on the off-centred dial.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

IWC is turning 150 next year. To celebrate this milestone, the company is set to unveil a special Jubilee collection at the coming SIHH in Geneva, comprising a total of 27 limited-edition models from the Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot and Da Vinci families. To mark this occasion, IWC is also launching its first-ever wristwatch to feature the original digital hours and minute display as it appeared on the Pallweber pocket watches back in 1884. The one aesthetic element all these timepieces share is their imprinted dial in white or blue, an effect that is achieved by a process of applying several layers of lacquer, reminiscent of heritage enamelled finishes. Here are some of the highlights.

Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years”

Named after legendary Austrian watchmaker Josef Pallweber, whose pocket watches remain unforgettable to those who are fortunate to lay eyes on them, the IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” recreates the iconic jumping hour for the wrist, in an 18k red gold case. Available in 250 pieces, the watch boasts an extraordinarily clean aesthetic thanks to its rounded 45mm case, measuring 12mm in thickness.

On top of that, it is smartened up with a white dial in lacquered finish, white display discs – one for the hour and two for the minute – and a blued second hand for small seconds. Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured 94200 calibre, with innovations that have yet to be granted patents. While toothed cogs moved the discs in the historic Pallweber pocket watches, the impulse that advances the single-minute disc now is supplied by a separate wheel train with a barrel of its own. A release mechanism that establishes a connection to the watch’s main wheel train unlocks the train every 60 seconds and then immediately locks it again. After 10 minutes, the single-minute disc moves the 10-minute disc forward by one position. Every 60th minute, the hour ring jumps to the next numeral. The fact that the flow of power in the main wheel train is uninfluenced by the separate wheel train guarantees a precise rate and a high 60-hour power reserve.

Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years”

A classic dress watch with small seconds, the Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” is the first watch to feature the new IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. The newly developed IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre is an automatic movement with Pellaton winding and boasts a power reserve of 60 hours, which is plentiful especially for dress watches as most are rated for 38 or 42 hours.

As parts are made from ceramic, the new movement is made to last as the material is renowned for its durability and being virtually wear-free. Housed in a 40.4mm stainless steel case, the watch revels in simplicity due to a blue dial with lacquered finish and rhodium-plated hands. The lugs slope ever so gently and hug the wrist at its most comfortable. With a thickness of 12.1mm, it will be concealed well by the cuff and remain aptly understated for formal occasions. On the back is a transparent piece of sapphire crystal, offering a glimpse into the inner work of the watch. Attractions such as the skeletonised rotor and plates with generous circular graining and Geneva stripes are bound to captivate. Ingrained along the caseback and on the rotor are inscriptions “150 years” and “one out of 500” – the latter marking the watch’s limited production number.

Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” collects endearing complications and amasses hearts of watch collectors along the way, as for the first time, the new IWC-manufactured hand-wound 94805 calibre with a power reserve of 96 hours combines a constant-force tourbillon with a single moonphase display that only needs to be adjusted by one day after 577.5 years.

The lack of adjustment needed for such a long period is a remarkable feat by IWC as many other watches with moonphases, including those of the perpetual calendar calibre, require a corrective touch every 122 years. It’s no surprise then the watch is available in a highly limited quantity, as only 15 pieces will be produced.

The watch has a 46mm platinum case, a white dial with a lacquered finish, and blued hands. The star of the timepiece is no doubt the constant-force tourbillon. The patented constant-force mechanism transmits completely even impulses to the escape wheel, regulating time and guaranteeing precision. The power reserve is indicated by a retrograde dial at four and five o’clock. As beautiful as the dial is, the transparent caseback is a sight to behold. The plates are meticulously decorated with Côtes de Genève that plays with light. The piece number is etched onto the caseback bezel, ie 01/15.

ROGER DUBUIS

In 2017, Roger Dubuis hit the grid with Pirelli and Lamborghini Squadra Corse, two iconic Maisons equally renowned for their daring vision, disruptive designs and radical R&D policies. The following watches powerfully showcase the feats one can expect when visionary engineers meet incredible watchmakers.

Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold

The high-powered partnership between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse has resulted in a new calibre inspired by the Aventador S engine. Come 2018, the unparalleled sensations and exceptional power of this timepiece will be unleashed in the Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold, starring a pink-gold bezel and sophisticated black Alcantara strap. Like its predecessor, driven by a passion for cutting-edge technological complexity shared with the Geneva-based manufacture, and in keeping with Lamborghini’s proud tradition, the watch is inspired by the dynamics of motorsport while adhering to fi­rmly entrenched supercar codes. Living up to its “Powered by Raging Mechanics” signature, this Lamborghini-exclusive timepiece issued in an 8-piece limited edition features a multi-layer carbon skeleton case and is propelled by an impressive engine in the shape of its specially developed trademark Duotor calibre.

Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton

Characterised by exclusivity, rampant virility and shared commitment to providing money-can’t-buy experiences, the “Perfect Fit” partnership between Roger Dubuis and car tyre legend Pirelli is rooted in the fact that exclusive service is a must for those seeking to make a lasting imprint on scorching tarmac.

In 2018, the proudly unmistakable features and trademark colours of the Excalibur Spider Pirelli collection give way to sleek black titanium and pristine white accents, reminiscent of the tarmac of which this iconic tyre company is king. On this special Pirelli edition of the best-selling model equipped with Calibre 820SQ, the fluted titanium black DLC skeletonised bezel is complemented by a crown over-moulded with white rubber and matching white stitching on the strap manufactured from winning Pirelli motorsport tyre rubber, featuring its distinctive tread on the interior. Watch this space, as the meaning of Roger Dubuis exclusivity once again attains new levels with the latest in a series of unequivocally singular limited editions designed to keep a wholly unique clientele riveted with a never-ending whirlwind of extravagant – naturally daring – surprises.

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