The AUGUSTMAN Guide to Suits - Part 1
There are plenty of suit makers out there, but which one to favour? That's the question that men around the world ask on a regular basis. There are many answers to be found all over the Internet, but we broke it down to a simple rule: it's not about the price, it's the construction.
The canvassing of a suit. Image from KentWang.com
Suits are, some like to say, the modern man's armour. We simply enjoy the uniformity and regularity of a well-tailored suit. But just because you've had a suit custom-made doesn't mean it's the best that money can buy. Off the rack suits that are well constructed can be a better alternative than something that's designed to fit, but isn't made the way a suit should be.
In a suit, the shell and lining are intercepted by a canvas. This gives structure to your suit. However, they can be joined to the two layers in a few ways, the most convenient by glueing, and the best by stitching. Glueing, while being an affordable solution, doesn't conform as well to the body and more importantly, wears out. As the glue deteriorates, the suit deforms. It's not a nice look, and it certainly doesn't last.
Image by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, FW15
On the other hand, a canvassed suit can be altered, edited, reshaped in a multitude of ways. The only thing that cannot be done is to expand the suit. So don't get fatter, get skinnier.