It has been more than 25 years since the first Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie or SIHH for short took place. Today despite a very uncertain global economy, SIHH enters 2016 bigger. No, its not the 40,000 square metres of exhibition space or the 15,000 expected guests that I am talking about, it’s the addition – for the very first time – of nine independent watchmakers to the exclusive list of exhibitors bringing the grand total of brands up to 24. To honour the spirit of SIHH, before the event commences later this month (18th to 22nd January) let’s take a moment to take a look of some of the innovative timepieces that will be making its debut in Geneva. Here’s a look at 10.
This year AP brings back yellow gold which is brilliantly contrasted with the blue dial of their Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Another thing to look out for is the grande tapisserie of the dial and one of the most realistic moons we’ve ever seen on a moon phase indicator.
Baume & Mercier
Timeless with both vintage and modern appeal, Baume & Mercier adds the new Chronograph Complete Calendar to their Clifton collection. The watch represents a small complication timepiece with a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and a moon phase indicator that completes one rotation every 29 and a half days.
With the new Clé de Cartier shape launched last year, it was only a matter of time before a skeleton variant was added to the collection. The Automatic Skeleton is special because unlike other timepieces of this nature which have a solid rotor, this one maintains the skeleton design while still having enough heft to power the timepiece.
Those looking for a larger IWC Pilot’s watch will be happy to know that IWC’s Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 will take on a 48 mm case. According to the manufacture, the watch will be imbued with ‘state of the art IWC technology’ which includes a sliding clutch that protects the hand wound movement from overwinding.
Celebrating 85 years of the Reverso for SIHH, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Calendar that has two separate faces housed in an 18K pink gold case. The front is reserved for the hours and minutes and a calendar with a moon phase indicator while on the back there is a second time zone along with the day/night indicator.
The Timewalker collection from Monblanc represents the brand’s ability to modernise its watches and this year, they are kicking it up a notch with the addition of their patented ExoTourbillon complication. In addition to the tourbillon, high technology materials like titanium, carbon fibre and diamond-like-carbon slingshots this watch to the top of the Timewalker foodchain.
For the first time ever Officine Panerai is releasing a Radiomir 1940 with a white dial. Clean and crisp, the dial is accompanied by large black numerals making it incredibly legible. Also, the P.4000 movement under the hood is equipped with double barrels for a three day power reserve.
As a tribute to the Quartz crisis that affected the watch industry back in the day, Piaget’s SIHH offering includes the Emperador Coussin XL 700P which offers a precise generator-regulated mechanical movement that is completely revealed through the dial. Additionally, the micro-rotor at the 9 o’clock position even offers the Piaget coat of arms.
What makes this particular variant of the Tonda Métrographe timepiece brilliant is the dark Abyss Blue dial that accompanies it. Created using a precise electroplating bath, the colour slowly turns from a dirty shade of orange into the magnificent blue you see before you. Called Abyss blue the dial is also lined with superluminova material which enchances its beauty both day and night.
Richard Mille’s RM67-01 is their first tonneau timepiece to undergo the ‘extra flat’ design making it unique in its own right. Although made with a slim movement the watch still displays depth in its design through the clever use of sculptured numerals mounted on titanium rails that are attached directly to the movement beneath.